Phal Sogo Meili

Phalaenopsis Sogo Meili

(Phalaenopsis Sogo Pride × Phalaenopsis Sogo Circus)

I bought this orchid in full bloom from Peach State Orchids in Milton, GA. I bought 4 of them, actually, and gifted two of them. Unfortunately, they all came with mealy bugs!! It’s the first and only time I’ve seen them in my sunroom and they promptly killed three of my orchids, including one of these. They attacked others, including this one, but I was able to save them. Nothing worked to get rid of them and I’m not willing to use a systemic chemical. If I see them again, I might try moving the orchid to water culture.

Growth Pattern

This orchid has done very well in my sunroom and has rebloomed once. It has a new spike and will probably bloom in February. Of all my orchids, the spikes on this one grow the slowest. Last time it was 5 months from first sign of spike to blooms! It appears to begin spiking in the fall, for early spring bloom. Otherwise it is a very happy orchid with a pot full of roots.

History and Features

The Phalaenopsis Sogo Meili produces elegant sprays of yellow flowers, with each bloom displaying clear, warm yellow tones and a rounded form characteristic of quality Phalaenopsis hybrids. This Taiwan-bred orchid, registered in 1988, is valued for its reliable blooming nature and its ability to produce multiple long-lasting flowers on gracefully arching spikes above the plant's dark green leaves. Mine has a hint of floral fragrance, probably because it is a primary hybrid of fragrant orchids.

Culture

This is a general culture guide for the very popular and robust supermarket Phalaenopsis orchids. The one above is a primary hybrid and grows more slowly than my supermarket orchids, but the care is about the same.

Temperature

  • Easy-going intermediate range

  • Day: 70-85°F (21-29°C)

  • Night: 60-65°F (16-18°C)

  • Can tolerate normal home temperatures

  • Protect from cold drafts and AC vents

Light

  • Bright indirect light

  • East or north window ideal

  • Filtered light from south/west window

  • No direct sun except early morning. I never got away with any direct sun at all. It always burned the leaves. Luckily that just looks really bad and shouldn’t hurt the orchid. Eventually old leaves fall off.

  • Leaves should be medium green

  • Yellow-green indicates too much light

  • Dark green suggests too little light

Water

  • Allow to approach dryness between waterings

  • Water thoroughly when media feels dry

  • Never let sit in standing water

  • Weekly watering usually sufficient

  • Reduce in winter

  • Morning watering recommended

  • Ice cubes NOT recommended despite marketing. Orchids generally come from warm humid climates.

  • Normal household humidity usually adequate. I don’t say much about humidity on this site because it’s general knowledge that orchids love humidity but homes don’t have it. Consistent watering generally solves that problem, although it can be difficult to keep air roots plump.

Potting and Media

  • Repot when media breaks down (1-2 years)

  • Use commercial orchid mix or

  • Medium bark mixed with perlite for drainage and some sphag moss so you don’t have to water as often.

  • Clear pots help monitor root health. It’s fun to see the roots grow!

  • Good drainage essential

  • Repot when roots are in active growth, usually in the spring.

  • Remove old media from roots when repotting. You don’t have to get all of it, just as much as you can.

Additional Notes

  • Fertilize "weekly, weakly" during growth, 1/2 tsp fertilizer per gallon.

  • Cut spike at base after blooms fade if you want to. It doesn’t matter. If you leave them, or cut them halfway, they can grow a secondary spike. Mine often do. You should cut the spike off if it dries out and turns brown.

  • Clean leaves occasionally with damp cloth

  • Usually bloom once or twice per year. Once you get them happy they will often spike again right after blooms die off.

  • Very forgiving of normal home conditions

  • Good orchids for beginners

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